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Dyed and woven patterns

染めと織り

A pattern on cloth comes either from colored threads woven in on the loom (weaving), or from dyeing or printing the finished cloth (dyeing).

01About

Plain dyeing covers the whole cloth in one color; printing puts color on certain parts only. Among the ways of dyeing a pattern is resist dyeing, where paste or wax keeps the dye off chosen areas: Okinawan bingata is dyed with a paper stencil and resist paste. In screen printing, color is pushed through a mesh, the stencil blocks it elsewhere, and one color is printed at a time, so a design in several colors needs several screens. A woven pattern is made on the loom: brocade weaves its design with an extra weft, so that it looks embroidered on; for ikat (kasuri in Japan), the yarns are resist-dyed in sections before weaving, and the slight blur along the pattern's edges is often prized.

02In the gallery

Look at the edges of the pattern. Printing pastes are thickened so the color does not spread beyond the design, which keeps printed edges clean; the soft blur at the edges of ikat comes from dyed yarns that do not line up exactly on the loom.

Wall label terms in Japanese

染め
Dyeing
織り
Weaving
捺染(プリント)
Textile printing
防染
Resist dyeing
紅型
Bingata (Okinawan stencil dyeing)
絣
Ikat (kasuri)

03Notes

Was this pattern there as the cloth was woven, or added after?

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